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A Passage through Ice

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Monthly Archive for October, 2011

More Lessons learned from a summer in ice

Posted in Boat, Posts by Nick, Uncategorized on Oct 27th, 2011

Lesson 4: Supplies

In many ways the first half of our trip was a shake down voyage. We were getting to know the boat, breaking in a new engine and getting an overall feel for how accurate our calculations were for how long our water, food and fuel reserves would last throughout our trans-Atlantic.

We were surprised how close our estimates were to what we would actually use,  but we learnt some valuable lessons that will certainly assist us in our provisioning for the Arctic. The Arctic environment both provides and restricts. We realized that diesel fuel prices are cheap and there is plenty of kerosene around at subsidized rates. We also noticed an abundance of fresh water around that we could tap into. However, we realized how difficult it is to find any descent food up north. It is so bad that we site it as a public health hazard, rotten fruits and vegetables, few dairy products but plenty of cookies, crisps and junk food. We realized how much chocolate, butter, bread and cheese we ate and will need to plan accordingly for this. The north is home to many surprises where ports get clogged with ice and boats get trapped in ice. We need to be self sufficient for months.

  • We realized that water wise we were going to be fine we never able to empty the tank between ports, and since fresh water rivers are pretty common along Greenland’s and Northern Canada’s coast we will just bring along water bags to transport the fresh water from land to the boat.
  • Fuel wise the engine was slightly more thirsty than we had anticipated and ice conditions requires significant motoring. Our 120 liter tank and four 25 liter Jerry cans on board are not sufficient. We will try to add another 100 liter diesel bladder to the bilge of the boat, along with extra kerosene, oil and gasoline tanks for the stove and dinghy engine.
  • Most of the provisions on board consist of basic foodstuffs. We carry few canned goods on board for weight reasons but will consider more due too the lack of fesh vegetables in the north. We will certainly bring enough food to keep us going for at least half a year to a year in case we become trapped in ice. Would love to have an oven but a stove will have to do, we must make chapati, pan bread and maybe even bread in a pressure cooker.

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Lessons learned from a summer in ice

Posted in Enviroment, Posts by Nick on Oct 22nd, 2011

Lesson 3: Sailing in Ice 

We quickly realized how dangerous sailing in ice can be with a fiberglass boat. Even small pieces of ice pose great danger to the boat. We had calm weather around Greenland’s Cape Farvel a luxury not bestowed on many, which allowed us to really test the boat in ice. We first penetrated some lines of brash ice to see how the boat would handle the small bits. We powered through it no problem and the small bow wave managed to move most of it away from the hull of the boat. As we began to enter into areas with more ice we realized that the medium to small growlers posed a particular threat. While small and often easy to overlook these growlers could hit the boat quite hard if not put a hole in the hull. The most dangerous bits being meter sized ball shaped black ice that were impossible to see until the last second due to their dark color and the fact that only a few inches of it protrude from the water.  

As we approached into areas with more ice coverage 1-3/10  we would put a man forward with a VHF to communicate back to the cockpit how to best navigate the small bits. In 4-6/10 of ice we would have one person on the bow and one up the mast to get a better perspective and vantage of the shortest way out. We only once ventured into  7-8/10 ice and the pieces of ice were so enormous that we got out of there pretty quickly. We could hear the ice around us squeaking, cracking, stressing and banging like gunshots as they collided and crushed against one another, it was an erie sound.  Of course no matter what ice conditions we were in there were always a few massive ice bergs 30-60 feet tall and the size of one or two football fields.  For more information on types of ice, ice concentration etc. please click on the Manice picture.

We became quite adept at negotiating the ice but it was tiring and we realized how impossibly dangerous it would be with any waves. We instantly identified the need to improve the way the boat was set up, some of our equipment and how we manged life on board.

  • We realized that we needed to make more re-inforcements around the hull of the boat. Primarily having a steel stem cap placed on the bow of the boat. We had designed one but time constraints did not allow us to fabricate and install it.
  • Because of the ice conditions and dense fog we encountered we were able to put our radar to the test and realized that the old radar was not sensitive enough for our needs letting large pieces of ice escape detection making for strenuous watches.
  • We realized that climbing up and down the mast is not always feasible and that installing a pan-tilt camera could provide us with a full time bird’s eye view of our environment and mitigate the risk of us sailing into a dangerous ice situation.
  • Anticipating being trapped in ice we will need grappling hooks, ice screws, floating and sinking ropes to negotiate what ever pack ice situation we encounter either at sea or anchored by land.
  • Finally we realized the toll fatigue had on us and we shortened watches on board from 4 hours to 3 hours which worked very well. While in ice we often found all of us needing to be on deck making for long days and longer nights.

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Lessons learned from a summer in ice

Posted in Communication, Posts by Nick on Oct 13th, 2011

Lesson 2: Ice reports

We thought we were well prepared to get all the information we required at sea regarding ice, but quickly we found that this was not so.  We had three ways of getting ice information, through sailmail, by weather fax and finally the Iridium Satellite phone.

When we approached the coast of Greenland we wanted to enter Prins Cristian Sound from the East but we did not know what the ice conditions were like as it had been a week since we left Iceland. The Danish ice services which were supposed to send  updated ice charts twice a day through weather fax never came through. When we finally were able to pick up a signal and receive ice maps through weather fax they were for different regions then they were assigned to cover. We finally got on the satellite phone and called Ice services central in Greenland and they wereabrupt and unhelpful at first.  The first time we called them while in ice they told us they were eating lunch and to call back in a couple of hours. Then when we called back for an update they asked the size of our boat and told us “its not for you, do not proceed” this told us nothing about our immediate surroundings and we were left in no better a situation.

We were able to contact a weather station through VHF and were given ice concentration information for our area but we were also told the information was unreliable because it was dated. After calling Ice service central again we were told we would be emailed an ice chart shortly. Unfortunately due to the sailmail size restrictions the chart was blocked but we saw that it was sent to several other sailboats in the area. We decided to email them and a few very nice sailors wrote back within minutes giving us the latest ice conditions.

We were still unsatisfied as understanding ice reports through descriptive text is possible it is hard to visualize. Edvin texted a friend in Sweden to try and shrink some satellite photos small enough so that we could receive it by email but this didn’t work out either. Finally we hooked up the satellite phone and decided to take on the cost and tried to download some charts. We did not enjoy finding ourselves on the coast of Greenland depending on other yachties to give us their visual ice conditions and the descriptions we received by radioing local weather stations. While we felt very comfortable in the ice and tested the boat taking into 7-8 tenths for the fun of it we learned some valuable lessons for next year.

Sailmail: Next year we will sign up for a service that will allow us to download larger files, including color ice charts.

Weather fax: We need to find out why the Danish ice services charts were not being transmitted at their assigned times and can only hope this will not be an issue when relying on Canadian ice services.

Satellite phone: We will buy more minutes so that we can download not only ice charts but satellite images which provide much more detail and expose small opening in the ice.

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Lesson learned from a summer in ice

Posted in Enviroment, Heat, Posts by Nick, Safety, Uncategorized on Oct 6th, 2011

Lesson 1: Clothing

It seems really obvious, probably the first thing you think of when you think of going to Norway, Scotland, Iceland, Greenland and Canada…………..bring really warms cloths!!! We did, we brought several warm hats each, tons of different types of gloves, lots of long underwear, winter clothing and several types of sailing gear but still we were all at one point or another humbled by the weather we were in.

One of the greatest challenges is that often on the boat you assume a position for hours at a time with occasional bursts of action to put a reef in, or shake one out, scan the horizon but regardless of those bouts of effort you are largely static. It is during these periods of time when the wind and damp cold began to penetrate the layers of your clothing.

We started off with four hour watches but after Iceland it became to cold to maintain body temperature for that long so we switched to three hour watches but had to wake the next person on watch half an hour before because it would take them that long to dress into the necessary gear. Often during a watch you would have to make several tips into the boat to top up on warmth grab another pair of gloves or a hat. There were marked differences in temperature when you were a mile from ice or 100 meters away. Often we could feel the ice before we ever saw it.

Bring multiple pairs of everything dampness and or sweat affects everything!

Gloves:  Gloves may only last a few hours before you need to change them, bring packs of cheap glove liners that you can insert into the shell whenever they get moist, bring oversize water proof gloves as well as neoprene gloves for working in water

Boots: Normal sailing boots with heavy socks is not a long term viable solution. We found that at least two pairs of insulated water proof boots are needed to keep you nice and toasty warm during watches. A problem with insulated boots it that they take for ever to dry out one the insulation is wet and for next year we are installing air hoses for the Webasto heater to be able to dry out our boots.

Hats: Bring it all 70% of body heat escapes through the head,  we had lots of warm hats on board but next time I am also brining earmuffs for under my hat or even a balaclava.

Foul weather gear: We all had  two pairs of foul weather gear our normal offshore gear and our amazing hardcore Salus suits that kept us warm in the coldest of nights. However we found that we need a third option in between our foulies and Salus suit possibly a lighter weight flotation suit.

Underwear: we had both wool and synthetic longjohns but after trying the boat we left the synthetic ones in the bag. Sometimes we would go for weeks in the same warm underwear and it felt really nice to have organic material next to the body that didn’t start to smell after 24 hours.

Apart from that we did well with plenty of long underwear and wool sweaters, hoodies and mounds of warm socks.

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BLOG Makeover

Posted in Posts by Nick, Uncategorized on Oct 6th, 2011

The last month has been extremely busy for us all. An unexpected return home had us all scrambling to get the boat put to bed in a safe place. Also returning back to our homes has been busy to say the least, finding places to live and getting  old jobs back. Morgan is now settled in Boston, Edvin in Malmo and I am back in Ottawa.

During this time of re-adjustment we have not been able to update the blog as much as we used to which was about two to three times a week, but now that we are all settled again we are re-focusing our attention to the Blog. Over the next few weeks you will see the blog under go a major overhaul: new banners, format, photo gallery, video library, etc. We will also be making some very exciting announcements between now and the new year about next years Northwest passage journey. There will be new crew, route updates, video clips and medi a announcements.

We hope that you will share with us your experiences, comments, ask us questions and follow us throughout our winter of planning and summer of sailing. Today we will begin a new series of blogs called “Lessons learned from a summer in ice” where we will go through all the various things we learned throughout our North Atlantic crossing and most importantly things we need to improve on for next year.

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Life under a tarp

Posted in Posts by Edvin on Oct 1st, 2011

When the boat was on the hard and the tarp was up we started  to winterize the boat. Morgan found a flight leaving after two days but I had to wait another week for mine. We ran the engine with anti freeze and emptied fuel and water tanks but even if we where still unmotivated and tired after the trip it all went surprisingly fast.
We spent two night in a row drinking vodka and rubbing all of our tools and utensils in Vaseline to stop corrosion and to kill time. Morgan had been trying to find someone to drive him to the airport but when he was leavening no one had offered to take him so he decided to hitchhike. With a sign written on an old russian chart I walked him to the highway and hugged him goodbye and hoped I would see him next summer. I spent the rest of the week under the green tarp in 30 degrees heat trying not to go totaly insane from boredom. The fact that I our Internet antenna could reach the WiFI in the marine helpen and I also had a few conversations with Pete who runs a sailing school in the Harbor. Pete had had contact with several sailors who left their boats in the marina for the winter and knew how I felt about leaving her. I was very grateful when he offered to send pictures of the boat every now and than so I could check on her. Even if it felt really good to leave the marina I said goodbye to Belzebub with a sting of sadness.

On the airport the woman in the check-in counter told me that my passport was expired since a year back and that there was no way for me to leave canada without a new passport ! :( The time before departing sweden had obviously been to stressful to check on the most obvious. The irony of it all was that I had been let into four countries during the summer and even if customs in Greenland was to say the least informal (read nonexistent) it was strange that the strenuous Canadian customs missed the expired passport ! Now I couldn’t get out of the country and had to spend a very expensive week in Halifax waiting for an emergency passport and a new flight. But everything happens for a reason and to my surprise I found out I had a friend in Halifax. Rana is a documentary filmmaker and we hadn’t seen each other for many years. Over a couple of beers an idea of a collaboration started to take form. Its going to be very interesting to find out what might come out of it !

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