We cruised into Nuuk on a fresh breeze surrounded by a hazy morning fog and waters dotted with floating ice. We were arriving to civilization after close to two weeks at sea and we had mixed feelings about our arrival – sad to be arriving back to civilization so soon but excited to see Greenland’s capital and immerse ourselves in its culture. We were also pretty excited about drinking something other than the milk we had been forced to subside on for the last few days.
We arrived in the bustling commercial port area and moored up to a string of large fishing vessels and other sailboats from various countries along a tall wharf. We immediately called to begin immigration formalities but just as last year we were told there was no need to do so and that we were “welcome”. We spent the first day exploring the small capital of fifteen thousand people and quickly realized that while appealing, logistically our stay would be much more complicated and time consuming than we had previously anticipated.
Firstly communications, specifically internet and telephone were difficult to access, wildly over priced and bound by ridiculous data restrictions which made life in port very complicated especially with regard to updating our blog. Secondly, access to the equipment and provisions we required were spread all over town, presently out of stock or simply not available in Greenland making the repairs we had to make time consuming or impossible.
We did, however, manage to organize a long term fuel solution for the crux of our expedition so that we can remain self sustainable for longer periods. This includes the storage of 25 litres of ethanol and 50 litres of kerosene – or jet fuel as they call it here for cooking. As well as an additional 150 litres of diesel storage for heating and any motoring that may need to be undertaken in the remote ice of Arctic Canada.
While we enjoyed the city culture, people, food and drink when we could our days were overall filled with frustration, incessant rain and eventually by the end sickness. After eight days in port we had made friends, connections and enjoyed the Greenlandic hospitality and learned more about the people and culture. However, we were happy to leave the bustling port and head back out to the more quaint communities and isolated fjords that the coast has to offer and the provide a more authentic portrayal of the country.